Khorkhog Times

My friend, Leah, has garnered many mentions in this blog so far but her partner, Andrew, has yet to feature. This is due to Andrew's first foray into running a Mongolian photographic tour with another friend, Batmaa. Andrew is an impressive photographer and writer. He has learnt over the last few years whilst crazy travelling the world. I'd give you a link to his site but you will continue to be disappointed with my photos from here on out so I might delay that. He has been taken a couple of Australian photographers around Mongolia, shooting the wild beauty on offer. Inviting Leah and I along, he had brought them back to our fair town for the night to experience a traditional Mongolian BBQ, a Khorkhog. 

  

A Khorkhog is an outside activity. Rocks are collected from a river and placed in a fire to heat up. Traditionally a goat would be gutted, the stones would be taken from the fire and placed inside the goat with vegetables. The whole thing is then cooked in the fire until deemed tasty. The modern day Khorkhog looked a little different. Instead of the gutted goat, the river rocks are heated and then placed in a pot (or metal milk container) with mutton or goat, veggies, water and salt. It then cooks away while participants kick back and enjoy the view.

For our Khorkhog, Batmaa's husband, Toggi took the reins. We had 4WD'd down to the river, scattering wild horses across the Steppes as we went. Toggi led us to collect and wash the river rocks. He then set about running his own cooking show as we relaxed with a few beers. The veggies (token) and meat were chopped and thrown into the pot with a little water and salt. The stones were piled in with tongs and the lid quickly secured in place.

When it was deemed the pot had hit tasty, it was taken off the fire. It's contents were emptied on the lid and the free for all began. The ribs are regarded as the tastiest morsel and soon everyone's fingers were covered in juices and the ever present animal grease. To finish the meal, the hot stones are taken from the pot and rubbed over the hands, or any other body part, to improve circulation. What is failed to be mentioned in this semi-romantic procedure, is that the stones are hot. Crazy, third degree burn hot. While the Mongolians sat there serenely with their stones, I am juggling mine back and forth, hoping the whole process finishes asap before blisters appear. 

With full bellies, we lay around the river grass and the vodka was passed around. It may sound that vodka is a constant in Mongolia and it is but it is about ritual more than alcoholism. After the Khorkhog, generally the most senior Mongolian male takes control of the bottle and passes the glass. He keeps the glass full and passes it with his right hand. You must receive it with your right hand and bring it to your lips. Here it is up to you, gulp or take nothing. It took me awhile to get the take nothing bit. The glass is then passed back to the man in charge with your right hand and the ritual repeated with the next person along. This continues until the bottles are empty.

The sunset was stunning. Mongolia definitely does a sunset. Armed with Vodka, I had hit the photographers for a free lesson and hopefully you will experience the benefits in the future. Feeling a little tipsy (hiccup!), we piled back into the old Russian troopy and I headed back for my first night in my ger.